Controlling power to the heated bed from web interface while using SSR

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By jandan 19 April 2017 23:31

Member · 6 comments

DuetWifi

I plan to have an SSR connected to the power terminal for heated bed on the board (as suggested).
It could be this one:  http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ … cts_id=288
Can I then control power (on/off) for the heater from the web interface? If so, how to wire this? I suppose not through the actual power terminal.
I wish there was on more terminal like the PS_ON for this purpose to.

Jan

Last edited by jandan (19 April 2017 23:47)

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By jmjcoke2 20 April 2017 01:24

Member · 10 comments

http://www.phidgets.com/docs/Solid_State_Relay_Primer

Yes you control it the same way as when wired directly from the Duet board to the bed.

https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_a_bed_heater

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By jandan 20 April 2017 15:23

Member · 6 comments

Thanks for your reply and help.
I obviously has limited understanding of how to wire this.  Still don't get it (who wired my brain???) .
Power to the heated bed should in any case be delivered from the terminal block on DuetWifi.  For me it looks like the SSR then is connected between this terminal and the bed in some way.  If so, this terminal will here be the only possible point to deliver the control signal from, this because I want the actual control from the web interface, not from any other switch or button.  I also can't find any other terminal for this signal on the board used by the interface.  The actual terminal will then deliver both power and signal.  Is this the way it works?   

Jan

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By DjDemonD 20 April 2017 16:15

Member · 495 comments

It might help to check out my build log where I spent a fair bit of time with the SSR and how it was configured with lots of photos and decription. http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,702599,page=1

In short run small/low power cabling between the Duetwifi heated bed output and the DC inputs to the SSR make sure to get polarity the right way around.

On the AC side, use mains cables rated for at least the power rating of your heater preferably double that power rating . I.e. a 700w heater running at 240v pulls 2.91 amps, use 5A cable at least. If in doubt cannibalise a main cable of suitable rating.  Take the neutral wire and run it to your heated bed mains heater, preferably adding a thermal fuse between the heater and the neutral wire, and ensuring you tuck it under the bed between the mains heater and whatever is above it (presumably aluminium plate), make sure its secure.

Now bring the live in from your power socket to one side of the SSR AC connectors. The other AC connector on the SSR goes to the live on your bed heater.

When a DC PWM or bang-bang "signal" is generated by the duetwifi, when the bed is on, the ssr will connect the AC. If its bang bang then it goes ON-OFF at full power in cycles lasting a second or two each when maintaining the bed temperature, if you send low frequency PWM (default setting for duetwifi) then it will pulse power at up to 10 hz to the bed for more precise control, the SSR will pulse connect the mains to the bed correspondingly..

The important part is the earthing. Make sure there is an earth wire from the aluminium bed, to the frame, and the to the SSR backing plate, and then out to your AC mains supply (preferably with an RCD/GFI) device. Ensure that all metal parts of the machine are grounded together, check this with a multimeter, aluminium frames are covered in aluminium oxide which is not very conductive so scratch the surface with the multimeter probe and check. The resistance between each of the metal parts should be low i.e. as close to 0 ohms as possible. Any poorly grounded or ungrouned metal parts need to be electrically joined together, you can use ring crimp connectors and mains wire and a drill and tap, with some m3 machine screws to earth bond the frame components together if needed. I didn't need to the tnuts and bolts created good connections.

If it stops controlling it for any reason the thermal fuse will trip permanently disconnecting the power, I chose 150 degrees, which allows a little headroom but should cut the power before anything melts or catches fire. If there is a wire break or the silicone heater (I assume you are using one) gets penetrated by anything, the RCD will trip.

As for your confusion, at any point that the duetwifi commands the bed to heat (that can be started by a gcode file, the paneldue, the web interface) then the heated bed output switches the SSR ON. When this signal goes off the SSR goes off. How it is wired doesn't affect how you tell it to come on/go off.

Last edited by DjDemonD (20 April 2017 16:16)